Ciao to the White City

Our four week stint in Sucre - 'La Ciudad Blanca' - is almost at a close and, to my surprise, we're itching to hit the road again. It's been great having somewhere to call home for a month and we've been so lucky with our hostel, La Dolce Vita. We had a huge room to ourselves - with the luxury of an ensuite and space to study - enjoyed many an afternoon sunning ourselves on the patio and even had a night of dancing (with benefit of quite a few beers) with the French/Swiss-German owners. In a way they've been like a surrogate family, helping us with frustrating Bolivian postal delays and conversing with us and other guests over many a bottle of wine. This family even comes complete with a seven year-old daughter, eager to play barbies and tell stories (in Spanish of course) who, unable to pronounce 'Claire', has affectionately renamed me 'Cleo'. She's a bag of laughs a minute and great for Spanish speaking practice. I'd recommend this hostel to anyone visiting Sucre, I'm sure we'll miss it.

However, like an impatient child, the travel bug is jumping up and down, busting to get moving again and, like all good travellers, we're dutifully obeying. Tomorrow we set off to Ecuador where we've signed up for two weeks volunteering with the Santa Martha animal sanctuary, an hour south of the Capital, Quito. Already this sanctuary is far more organised than Inti Wara Yassi, the Bolivian equivalent that we initially approached, and has already secured our place and accommodation. We're really looking forward to it.

But how can I sign off without one last ode to my favourite country thus far? I can only hope that fellow travellers, friends and family visit this interesting place. It's true that you will sometimes feel like you're on another planet in Bolivia, but at the same time, it oozes personality and vitality. One thing I've learnt a thing or two about is the value of hard work, and how hard some people have to work just to feed their kids a couple of times a week, something which I'm sure is inconceivable to many. There's also something beautiful about the ubiquitous juxtaposition of old and new, traditional and modern - traditionally clad dancers resting on a shiny hilux, or the unusual accessories that are so often coupled with time-old rural clothing: a 'North River Surgery Centre' jumper or an 'I love London' baseball cap. It's all part of Bolivia's character and charm and I'm sure this wont be my last visit.

Back to School

Some might call it madness, I know I have each morning this week while climbing out of bed at 7am to get ready for Spanish class. That's right, I've made the voluntary decision to go back to school, homework and all.

Having done a fair bit of travel in foreign countries one thing I find really frustrating is not being able to speak the local language. What is equally, if not more frustrating, is only knowing how to say: 'Do you speak English?' I feel presumptuous and rude. But in most cases, it can't be helped. You can't be expected to speak the language of every country you visit (especially in Europe), sometimes you just have to do your best. The good news for me is that, taking time out in Sucre has also posed as a good opportunity for Spanish lessons to alleviate my frustration. Considering I'm spending six months on a Spanish-speaking continent, I think it's a good idea.

Sucre is one of Bolivia's two capital cities and is the country's judicial centre (don't ask me why there are two). La Paz is Bolivia's administrative hub and home to its President. As it happens, Sucre is also our favourite Bolivian city. It's somewhat more laid back than the country's other big cities and is really beautiful (think big white colonial buildings and leafy green plazas). It is also swimming with Spanish schools and, as a result, 'gringos', or foreigners.

So this week, Bec and I jumped on the Spanish school bandwagon and we'll be on it for the next month, having signed up with the Academia Latinoamericana de Espanol and booked into the popular La Dolce Vita Hostel longterm. And the week one report? So far so good, the first coo being that, for whatever reason, I've been allocated my own tutor (having paid for group classes), so the intensive course I signed up for is just that. It's been fairly reminiscent of my highschool French days - learning lists of verbs and vocab - with a few extra 'practical activities' thrown in. For example, we took a trip to the local market to buy typical Bolivian fruit and also enjoyed a saltena at 'El Patio', the best saltena spot in town, the whole time speaking in Spanish of course.

I can't say I'm used to the homework sheets yet, but I am very much enjoying the stimulation after a few months of wandering - I think my brain is too. So bring on week two!

Our Spanish School - who wouldn't want to come here each day?