A step back in time: return to Bolivia

Ok, so things don't always go to plan, especially when you're travelling. We were really keen to volunteer at the Inti Wara Yassi animal sanctuary, so much so that we travelled over 40 hours by bus from Buenos Aires to get to the tiny town of Villa Tunari (somewhere between Cochabamba and Santa Cruz de la Sierra), only to be told that the Park was full. This was very frustrating as we'd emailed what we thought was the Park - actually just an office in London - to tell them the date we were coming. 'Just turn up and feel free to volunteer whenever you wish', they said. Unfortunately for us, a group of 14 GAP organisation volunteers just 'turned up' a couple of hours before us and, as fate would have it, it just wasn't meant to be. Well that's not entirely true. There was the option of joining the construction team for 15 days, but we were told there would be very little interaction with the animals, which was the whole reason for our coming. Nevermind, that's the way the organisation works and we may make another attempt in another month or so.

So after 14 hours of bus travel that required a sports bra - gotta love those unpaved Bolivian roads - we're back in our favourite Bolivian city: Sucre. The plan was always to have a month of Spanish lessons and we chose Bolivia after experiencing the uniqueness of the Argentine accent (and the dent Argentina made to the hip pocket!) Luck finally went our way when our contact at the Academia LatinoAmericana de Espanol agreed to bring forward our starting dates for Spanish lessons at short notice. So here we are, back in the White City!


A couple of weeks ago we bumped into a Danish traveller we'd met in La Paz at a bus terminal in Buenos Aires. His response to our plans was: 'What? You're going back to Bolivia voluntarily?' I was surprised at this because I love the country. It has so much to offer with it's unique culture and diverse landscapes, it's such an interesting place.

Coincidentally, my Mum recently referred me to an article in the Australian newspaper online (Mum's are great aren't they?) It was in the travel section and the topic was Bolivia. Entitled 'In slow motion', it acknowledged Bolivia as the black sheep of South America in terms economic progress. The author, however, also labeled the country 'the sweetest, most unspoiled and engaging country in South America, the continent's hidden jewel'. I kind of like this perspective.

Bolivia is a fascinating world of its own. The women are particularly striking. They wear their long braided black hair in pigtails, often under bowler hats, teamed with knee-length Spanish-style skirts, wrapping themselves in brightly coloured shawls that carry anything from household goods to children. In Bolivia, if you need anything - a camera or even a new toilet seat - you don't go to the local department store, you hit up the black market. Need to exchange money? Just have a chat with the old man standing on the corner with the wad of cash in his hand and the minute 'money exchange' sign. And don't expect a print out of your bus ticket, or a receipt of any kind that isn't handwritten.


For some, I can see why Bolivia may appear backward or stuck in the past, and might not be the first stop on the South American itinerary, but I think those people are missing out. It's true, the poverty is at times overwhelming and confronting, but that's not what defines the country. In my opinion, Bolivia's true colours are to be seen in a scenic bus trip between cities, a wander through the local fruit market, or an afternoon of people watching in a plaza.

So did I come back to Bolivia voluntarily? You bet I did and it's great to be back.