We happened to breeze into Buenos Aires the night before a La Boca Juniors v Argentinos Juniors soccer match. Not huge fans of soccer, Bec and I thought twice about going but we decided the stadium atmosphere could be fun so we booked tickets through our hostel. I can now safely say that you definitely don't have to be a fan of soccer to enjoy a match in South America. You must, however, be prepared. For those back home, this is no friendly Sydney Swans match, no beer-guzzling day at the Cricket. You will face a riot squad. You will be frisked not once, not twice, but three times on your way in. Any alcohol, cigarette lighters, lip balm or aerosol cans will be confiscated. High fences and barbed wire will prevent any contact with spectators from the other side. Oh, and you will see a lot of men who probably shouldn't take their shirts off, with their shirts off. In saying that, you will also see the most passionate of sports spectators. Armed with flags, drums and wistles you can't help but wave your hands around, shout and chant with them.
Getting used to the half-naked bodies behind me
Heading to a football match is not for the faint hearted though. Don't expect a seat, you will stand, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, for the entire time. It was a little like being in a chicken coup. This could, however, have been my saving grace as at one point, when Boca scored its second goal, the crowd got a little over-enthusiastic and surged forward sending about ten of us toppling forward also. Luckily there were too many people for us to go too far and nobody was hurt. Finally, a cold beer at half time is out of the question, which was a little disappointing when beer o'clock rolled around. All alcohol is banned but the locals seem to make do by smoking other substances.
One image that will remain in my mind is that of a father holding his son triumphently in the air whenever Boca performed well. Every time I turned around, there he was. The only problem was the child, who looked absolutely terrified, could not yet have been six months old! You can imagine the conversation this guy's wife had with him before the match: 'Honey, I've got a girls night tonight, so you'll need to watch little Diego'. If only she knew.
The result was a little disappointing (a draw of two all with Argentinos scoring in the last two minutes). This meant that both sets of supporters had to be released from the stadium separately to avoid any 'disturbances'. The Argentinos side were the unlucky ones to be literally locked inside as we filed out past the ready and waiting riot squad. All I can say is it was certainly an experience, at times jaw-droppingly so, but it's one I'd do again if I had the chance.
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