Farewell Argentina in true Argentina style: meat, wine and a different kind of crowd surfing

It’s been well over a month since we arrived in Argentina and we’ve loved our time in the beef and wine country. Having decided to head back to Bolivia to learn Spanish, we’d been dreading the 37 hour bus trip from Buenos Aires to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. But, come the end of Carnival, it was a reality, a next day reality! So, with no sleep at all, we caught a bus back to Buenos Aires and, having a mere twelve hours left in the big city, we did the essentials. We had our last taste of street food - a choripan (sausage sizzle), smothered with our all time favourite, chimichurri. This was followed (after a long siesta) by a final meal at the amazing San Telmo steakhouse, Desnivel, accompanied by a good bottle of local red.

The following day on our way to board our 9.15am bus, we were given one last parting memory of Argentina, provided this time by our ride on the metro: peak-hour. The backpacking way means we take public transport whenever we can, and this includes when we’re laden with our heavy packs. So you can imagine the look on our faces when, 45 minutes before our bus left, we physically couldn’t fit on the train. It was impossible. There were just too many bodies crammed into each carriage. So we waited for the next one, hoping for a change. Same deal. This time, however, the urgency of getting to the bus station on time took over. Like front rowers charging a scrum we did the same to the pack of unsuspecting passengers on their way to work. Surprisingly, us and our packs (which made us four people, not two) made it on unscathed. So my parting memory of Buenos Aires - and Argentina - is not the meat or the wine, but standing like an upright sardine in a can, swaying with the movement of a sweaty crowd as the train took corner after corner, hoping desperately that no one person would send us all falling down like a set of dominoes.

So thanks for the memories Argentina, I’ll miss you!

Before heading to Sucre, we’re off to spend two weeks volunteering at an animal sanctuary called Inti Wara Yassi, near Villa Tunari in Bolivia. I have a feeling that the monkeys and pumas there aren’t huge users of the internet, which means the blog’s going to have to have a two week siesta. Not to worry, sure there’ll be plenty of material in the making over the next fortnight. Until then xo

Buenos Aires' culinary gems

Her name is Christina Sunae and she is the woman behind Concina Sunae, a 'puertas cerradas' (closed door) restaurant on the outskirts of Belgrano.  I'm a lover of good wine, but also of good food, so I just had to blog this one. Another local recommendation, we thought we'd stumbled over a little unknown. It seems, however, these restaurants are quite the scene in Buenos Aires. The list of them is extensive and their concept simple. They're run by people who love food, know a thing or two about cooking and whose passion leads them to open their homes as 'restaurants' once or twice a week.

Christina - or Sunae as she prefers - is of American-Korean descent. The first 'pan-asian' restaruant of its kind, its website describes her food as luring. Well we were lured before we'd even tried her delicious creations. Coming from Asian-influenced Sydney, we've craved many dishes since being away, particularly big bowls of Vietnamese Pho. Unfortunately, quality Asian restaurants are far and few between in South America and, since now, we haven't found one that meets the Sydney standards. Enter Christina Sunae.

Open on Fridays and Saturdays, we booked for Saturday February 13th. Via email we were told that we were welcome in her home at 9pm, starters to be served at 9.30pm. We arrived promptly and were led into her candle-lit home. The place was set up just like a restaurant, with table settings for the capacity 20 guests, but with personal touches also, such as family photos, wall artwork and colourful couch pillows - we were in her living room after all!

We started by treating ourselves to the cocktails on offer that evening. For Bec who hadn't enjoyed lychees in a long time, this was a lychee and lavender blend, for me, it was lemon and ginger. Things were off to a good start. We followed this with a bottle of Mendoza Chardonnay. Next to come were the starters: Vietnamese Crispy springrolls served with Nuoc Mam sauce and lettuce leaves, which we were instructed by the waiter to use as wrappers for the rolls. Verdict? Delicious. This course was followed by an equally appetising mango and avocado salad.

Along came the mains. The no-seafood eating Bec was served Khao Soi - chicken in thai yellow curry served over egg noodles which kind of tasted like laksa without the soup component. I got Tamarind prawns which had a beautiful sweet and sour taste. The presentation of the food was superb and only added to its lure. And what would a culinary experience such as this be without dessert? The banana puff served with sticky rice and green tea icecream definitely hit the spot.

To top off the evening, the charming Christina took time out of the kitchen and spoke to each of her guests and even showed us both out at the end. This was a nice touch as we were able to tell her in person just how much we enjoyed her cooking and that we were sure we wouldn't be eating a meal like this until our arrival back home in November. I suspect this is true, at least in the pan-asian department. I just wish I'd discovered Christina Sunae sooner!

Tigre from a local perspective

The best travel advice I’ve had so far is to befriend a local and get their tips and views on what to do and where to go. In doing this, often you can avoid overpriced tourist activities, experience quality wining and dining, or discover an interesting suburb that’s been overlooked by the guidebooks. You can also make some great friends. I had a stroke of luck in that not only did I have a connection in the Argentine capital, but she was also generous enough to invite both of us to her holiday house in Tigre! Alex is a dear friend of my mother’s, having met in their twenties when Alex moved to Australia. They haven’t seen each other in years but, nevertheless, she welcomed us with open arms.

The first benefit of this connection was the discovery of Alex’s neighbourhood, Belgrano. Here we found Buenos Aires’ Chinatown, and also some fantastic Chinese supermarkets which import many items that aren't found in the average city supermarkets. For us curry lovers this was curry paste and powder. Another noteworthy item is peanut butter, but the search continues for vegemite.

After a tasty lunch in a cheap and cheerful Belgrano café, we had the treat of driving to the ferry terminal, a luxury for those used to negotiating busy trains with large backpacks. It was also a bonus as it was pouring with rain outside.

Tigre is an island on the Parana Delta and is about an hour outside of Buenos Aires by train. After an hour long ferry ride, we arrived at Alex’s little wharf. Painted a striking shade of pink with blue trimmings, like most, her gorgeous place is perched right on the riverbank. Through Alex we met her niece Diana and boyfriend Rodrigo, San Telmo dwellers who were staying in Alex’s sister’s place next door.

Apart from sun baking on the wharf, watching boats go by, the next twenty-four hours spent with our new local friends was filled with firsts. We tried mate for the first time. You’ll notice in Argentina and Uruguay that people walk around religiously sipping from silver pipes in ornate little cups, clutching their thermoses for refills. This is mate and it’s everywhere! Mate is difficult to describe in words. It’s kind of like a bitter tasting green tea, but much thicker. Actually, what am I saying? It’s not like green tea at all. You just have to try it. Rodrigo performed what Alex labeled a ‘mate ritual’ for us, and sweetened it up a little with some brown sugar and orange zest. It’s definitely an acquired taste, but I got to like it.

Another first was melon with prosciutto for dinner. I’d seen this on menus everywhere but never ordered it. It’s delicious, if you're into mixing savory and sweet. Diana and Rodrigo also recommended a San Telmo steak house, ‘Don Ernesto’. We ended up going the following evening and boy was it good, as most local recommendations are.

Futbol with all the trimmings

We happened to breeze into Buenos Aires the night before a La Boca Juniors v Argentinos Juniors soccer match. Not huge fans of soccer, Bec and I thought twice about going but we decided the stadium atmosphere could be fun so we booked tickets through our hostel. I can now safely say that you definitely don't have to be a fan of soccer to enjoy a match in South America. You must, however, be prepared. For those back home, this is no friendly Sydney Swans match, no beer-guzzling day at the Cricket. You will face a riot squad. You will be frisked not once, not twice, but three times on your way in. Any alcohol, cigarette lighters, lip balm or aerosol cans will be confiscated. High fences and barbed wire will prevent any contact with spectators from the other side. Oh, and you will see a lot of men who probably shouldn't take their shirts off, with their shirts off. In saying that, you will also see the most passionate of sports spectators. Armed with flags, drums and wistles you can't help but wave your hands around, shout and chant with them.

Getting used to the half-naked bodies behind me

Heading to a football match is not for the faint hearted though. Don't expect a seat, you will stand, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, for the entire time. It was a little like being in a chicken coup. This could, however, have been my saving grace as at one point, when Boca scored its second goal, the crowd got a little over-enthusiastic and surged forward sending about ten of us toppling forward also. Luckily there were too many people for us to go too far and nobody was hurt. Finally, a cold beer at half time is out of the question, which was a little disappointing when beer o'clock rolled around. All alcohol is banned but the locals seem to make do by smoking other substances.

One image that will remain in my mind is that of a father holding his son triumphently in the air whenever Boca performed well. Every time I turned around, there he was. The only problem was the child, who looked absolutely terrified, could not yet have been six months old! You can imagine the conversation this guy's wife had with him before the match: 'Honey, I've got a girls night tonight, so you'll need to watch little Diego'. If only she knew.

The result was a little disappointing (a draw of two all with Argentinos scoring in the last two minutes). This meant that both sets of supporters had to be released from the stadium separately to avoid any 'disturbances'. The Argentinos side were the unlucky ones to be literally locked inside as we filed out past the ready and waiting riot squad. All I can say is it was certainly an experience, at times jaw-droppingly so, but it's one I'd do again if I had the chance.

I'll always come back to San Telmo

We've come and gone from Buenos Aires a few times now and stayed in different neighbourhoods. On our first weekend we headed to Palermo with the intention of taking full advantage of its thriving club and bar scene. This suburb is one of the city's trendiest. Full of young bohemian-types, the streets are lined with boutique shops and stylish cafes, and the nightlife is pumping every day of the week. My Mum would say this place has panache.

San Telmo, on the other hand, doesn't have the panache factor. The streets are comparatively dirty, the neglected buildings are smeared with graffiti and wafts of dog poo are constant. Many homeless people congregate in surrounding parks and some say it's not the best place to walk around in at night. But that's San Telmo and we keep coming back. Once you get past its superficial lack in aesthetics, you fall for its character. Whether its the funky Sunday antique markets, the ubiquitous street performers, impromptu jazz quartets, or amazing steak houses, there's something about this place that brings us back each time. It's the only place where I've noticed people walking along the footpath singing audibly as they go! There's something in the air.

Conveniently, it's also crawling with hostels, so there's never a shortage of options in that department. It's close enough to the slightly tacky Centro if we need a department store (and far away enough to avoid altogether). A hearty walking distance from the colourful La Boca and the modern Puerto Madero, to me, this is the place to be. Long live San Telmo!

Paris of the South

Buenos Aires can certainly claim this title with its colonial structures, wide avenues, alfresco dining, reliable metro, leafy plazas and countless monuments. It really is like being somewhere in France or Spain, particularly having come from Bolivia, which is about as far from Europe as you can get.

Our plan was always that we would get to BA, travel around for a few weeks, and then settle there for a couple of months and do an intensive Spanish course. This is my second visit to the city and I was quite excited about getting to know it. The plan has since gone out the window, for two main reasons. Firstly, since arriving, we’ve really felt it in the financial department. I think this is accentuated again by our Bolivian experience, where everything was cheap as chips. There’s also the constant temptation of good food, bars and shopping to which it’s very easy to give in and spend up. Secondly, Argentinean Spanish is quite different to the Spanish spoken in other Latino countries. For example, normally, the word ‘parrilla’ (grill) is pronounced ‘par-ee-ya’; here it is pronounced ‘par-ee-sha’. And ‘pollo’ (chicken) usually pronounced ‘po-yo’, is ‘po-sho’. This is unique to Argentina and considering we’re going to many other Spanish-speaking countries, both here and in Europe, we’ve decided it would be more practical to learn a more common dialect elsewhere. At this time, elsewhere is back in Bolivia, probably Sucre. There is, however, always the possibility that I might pack in the law thing, stay in BA and become a dog walker, very tempting considering I want to adopt every stray I find (we saw one guy walking about 15 dogs at once!).

Given that our time is limited, we still certainly plan to make the most out of BA. We spent a good four days with Jules, which was tainted by a suspicious case of food poisoning after a hostel ‘asado’ (various cuts of coal-cooked meat), coupled with Jules’ near death by pisco sour (the national drink of Chile and Peru) – that stuff is potent! Stomachaches were put aside however, and we soldiered on. We walked the streets and boutiques of Palermo and spent hours
wandering the San Telmo antique markets. We strolled down to La Boca, past the famous Boca Juniors football stadium and to the colourful birthplace of Tango. We also got to the Recoleta cemetery, best known for being the resting place of Eva Peron (Evita). She was the rags to riches wife of the President of Argentina and influenced the introduction of many social and economic programs for the working classes in the 1940s. Her global profile was probably also raised by the very average film ‘Evita’, starring Madonna and Antonio Banderas.

I think it’s safe to say that everyone’s taken advantage of the great food and wine on offer here. My favourite was a juicy steak at a place called ‘Desnivel’ in San Telmo. I also introduced the girls to my favourite Argentinean salsa, chimichurri, a delicious mix of herbs, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. I tried to make it once back home, but it just wasn't the same.








Jules being here for only two weeks has conveniently turned into a great excuse to play tourist. So far we plan to hit the tourist-hub of Iguazu Falls and also explore Uruguay. Stay tuned.